One look I have yet to see incorporated into gothic fashion is the sari. I’ve seen plenty of ladies (and a few bois) adorning themselves with bindis from time to time, but I can’t think of a more romantic and exotic look than the sari.

The sari, also spelled saree, is a classic element of the Indian woman’s wardrobe. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word “chira,” which means a wearable length of cloth. Its origins are unknown, but evidence of its existence can be found on ancient terra cotta statues, some dating back as far as 200 B.C. Even men have their own version of the sari, called a dhoti. The dhoti is sort of a truncated version; it doesn’t wrap up around the chest and over the shoulder.

Saris are flattering on any woman, regardless of size. The beauty of this simple, untailored garment is it can conceal flab or accentuate curves.

The sari can be made from a wide variety of fabrics: cotton, chiffon, georgette, and silk. Some are elaborately embroidered, even with gold and silver threads. Darker colours are expected for older women, while bright colours are attributed to young married women. A fascinating colour guide from Seasons offers some tips on choosing colours, but it’s likely I’ll be making a beeline for the black, burgundy, and violet silks.

The actual length and width of the sari varies by region. Usually it is six metres long, but can be as long as eight or nine. Traditional sari dimensions are also influenced by regional and community draping styles. Three basic styles of draping are called the nivi, the northern and the kaccha. The nivi is the most widespread, worn not just by the Indian community, but in Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh. The nivi drapes from the bottom to the top, over the shoulder and leaves pleats in the front. The northern style has skirt pleats in the front and the free end draped around the back and over the front, so that the end piece covers the breasts. The kaccha, meaning “belt” in Sanskrit, drapes similarly, but with 9 yards of fabric. The extra fabric, once draped, is passed between the legs and tucked at the waistline, in the back.

When dressing, the undergarments required here are a petticoat or ghaghra and a choli. We may think of petticoats as a means add to the fullness of a skirt, but here, the ghaghra is not pleated, has a drawstring waist, and should fall just at the ankle. The choli is a midriff-baring, fitted blouse that ties in the back (sometimes worn by bellydancers). The necklines vary, and the sleeves are short or not at all.

When wrapping the sari, the plain end is tucked into the ghaghra at the navel and wrapped around the body once. The end of the sari should touch the floor. From where the sari is tucked in, several pleats are made. This pleated area is then tucked in to the left of the navel. The remaining fabric is draped one more time around the body, brought up under the right arm and over the left should so that it falls to the knees. This end portion, the pallav, can be fixed in place at the shoulder with a safety pin.

These fashions were meant for the humid climate of India, but there isn’t any reason why you couldn’t try this exotic style! There are saris for every budget and can be found anywhere from US $50 and up, depending on the type of fabric and embroidery involved. Below, I’ve included some interesting sites where you can buy saris and other Indian accessories.