For me, the best quality hair dye is professional hair dye, sometimes called tint. It comes in tubes and is mixed with peroxide, sometimes called developer. There are two types that I recommend, Permanent and Demi-Permanent. I’ll explain the difference a bit later. It may not seem cost effective compared to buying a box kit, but add it up over 12 months, no contest. Kits are okay, however the best value for money is buying the pro stuff and, with a little advice, you’ll have great results every time.

I’ll start with basic mixing, application, removal, and safety. Make sure you read all of this before you go hell for leather. I’ll also have some additional tips and some links for you at the end of this piece.

Assemble all needed things, be sure you have time to do the application, processing and removal, uninterrupted. If you have help, so much the better. Be sure you are in areas that are protected from any accidental dye stains. Check your scalp for any cuts, abrasions or open wounds. If you do, wait before applying the hair dye as you may get a rather nasty sting, or worse. If it is a very tiny cut, I’ve been known to get away with a dab of Vaseline and applying very carefully around the area. I don’t really recommend this, especially of you are applying yourself. Do at your own risk.

You will need:

Basic Mixing Instructions
Permanent Dye
30-45 mls/cc’s of 20 vol: Peroxide (6%)
30-45 grams/mls/cc’s or 1/2 - 2/3 a tube: of Permanent Black Dye. The international numbering system calls this No#1. Yup - just like the song. The amount you mix will depend on the density of your hair.

Put the dye first into a plastic or ceramic bowl. Slowly add the peroxide and mix thoroughly until it’s a creamy consistency, just like cooking. Don’t whip it, it’s not a meringue.

Demi-Permanent Dye
Either: 30-45 mls/cc’s of 5 volume peroxide (1.5%)
Or: 60-90 mls/cc’s of 5 volume peroxide (1.5%)
30-45 grams or 1/2-2/3: tube of DEMI-Permanent Black Dye. The amount of peroxide will depend on the manufactures instructions - always follow those as they will differ from company to company.

Mix the same as above. Expect to see a slightly thinner consistency. Timing will similar, however as these are a much gentler version of a hair dye you can leave them on longer, with no adverse effects.

Never use any metal anything – it will react with the dye and be an all around bad idea.

As a rule, you never want to apply to freshly washed hair. The reason is your scalp has more protection from the dye with that thin film of oil on your scalp. Freshly washed, you can be a bit vulnerable to irritation without this natural protection. By the way, that sting you may feel when you first apply is the chemical reaction between the peroxide and the dye itself. If this is something you experience a lot, try mixing the dye and waiting 60-90 seconds before application.

Brush your hair well to be sure it is free from tangles and hairspray/product build up, but avoid brushing the scalp too vigorously. As stated above, don’t scratch or otherwise irritate the scalp. Use Vaseline or some other thick barrier cream along the border of your hairline and the tops of your ears, without getting it into your hairline. Most soaps, facial toners, or astringent will remove the Vaseline.

When you apply the colour, use a hairdressers colour brush (about $1 or so at any pharmacy or suppliers). Apply from the scalp out to the ends of the regrowth only, in 1cm or 1/2" sections. A good rule of thumb – if you can see the dye when you take the next section, you are doing well. If you can’t see any bleed through, you may miss dyeing areas of your hair. Do make sure that you saturate the hair with dye, the hair needs to be coated well for best results.

Keep the colour away from the hair-line around your face by about 1/4 cm, or 1/8". Then, take an old (sacrificial – you’ll never use it for anything else) toothbrush and use it to brush some more color gently into your hair-line. Stroke back away from the face into the dye already, and try to just touch those little hairs without brushing the scalp. This will help you achieve the best around the face coverage without staining the skin.

To refresh the ends, don’t use the same mixture. It’s too strong and will damage your hair over time (finer hair sooner than later) and cause the colour to fade faster. Use a demi permanent colour. As the name suggests, it’s a cross between a permanent dye and a semi-permanent dye or rinse. It’s safer and won’t damage your hair. You’ll also get a much stronger result. It can be applied as soon as you finish the root area, or afterward.

For first time application, there are two ways you can approach this. It all depends on the condition and history of your hair.

First Method:
If you have no colour in your hair at all, it’s virgin hair. If this is the case for you, then the instructions are simple. Prepare as above. However your application method will differ:

First: Apply the dye from the ends to the mid lengths. Avoid the root area, about 5 cms/2" from the scalp. Let this process for about 10-15 minutes. Second: Apply fresh dye to the root area. Process this for a total of 30-45 minutes. That’s it.

Second Method:
If you have bleached, or otherwise chemically treated hair, use this method. This is also an excellent option for those with sensitive scalps. The preparation will be the same, but you will use demi permanent colour.

Apply the formula roots to ends in one-step and process for the full time. Depending on the porosity or evenness of the damage to your hair, you may have to repeat this process a second time. Don’t worry, this product is made for this and will not damage your hair. This process is called a Back-to-Back application.

Sometimes there just isn’t time to do the whole thing, but there is a way to have it all. For a touch-up, mix a small amount your colour of choice and apply to the regrowth. However, you’ll apply to just the hairline and the part. Also great for in between times when you have roots but not enough to do a full head dye. Process for the same time.

When rinsing, use gloves. If you, like me, hate gloves, you can do without, but it will stain your fingers for a day or three. Wet your fingertips and massage the color into itself around the hairline before you wash it off. This friction will help remove that black band around your face as dye helps remove dye. Once you’ve done that, slightly wet your hair all over, and do the same all over your scalp. Rinse well and shampoo lightly. Condition and rinse. You can do a better shampoo after a day. It’s best to let the colour set.

Safety First
OK, for those who speed-read – this is a section you can’t skip over. It’s easy to get complacent and forget this stuff. Don’t – it’s not worth the possible consequences.

Always read the directions and follow them to the letter. In the eternal bid to out-market the next guy, companies make subtle changes to even the most basic products. This leads to variations in mixing ratios, timing and other things.

Do a skin test. If you are using a product and/or colouring for the first time it will let you know if you will have an allergic reaction. Instructions should be included with the product. If not – here goes:

Write down the phone number of the poisons control centre in your country. It should be listed on the product itself. If not, look it up. This is in case there is a severe allergic reaction. Also have the phone number of emergency services handy in case of an accident. Call them if something happens, don’t hesitate. Don’t throw away the packaging in case the doctor needs it.

If you get any in your eyes, or if it is ingested by anyone (a curious infant, pet, etc) use your emergency number now! Rinse eyes in cool water while someone calls for you. With ingestion, do not induce vomiting.

Don’t use permanent or demi-permanent dye to colour your eyebrows. Ever.

If you feel excessive irritation, pain, etc., rinse the colour off immediately. You may either have a wound or an allergic reaction. Either way, it’s not supposed to hurt. Don’t wait for it to get better if it’s bad; it’ll only get worse.

Scary? Well, you are playing with chemicals after all. And though they are so much safer these days, every now and then someone is sensitive. And accidents do happen. Be alert and don’t risk it.

Recommended Hair Colour
Many are available at beauty outlets and professional hair outlets that sell to the public. Some salons also sell hair dye and the accompanying accessories like colour brushes, peroxide, measuring vials, etc. They should also be happy to spare a moment to be sure you have all the right things to do the job. Always ask for advice if needed.

Wella makes colour that comes in a little bottle instead of a tube. These are called gel-tints. There is a question among stylists as to the effectiveness of these. Some are not so great, like Clairol. In my experience the Wella Black is great. A true black every time. They have a great blue black too!

Schwarzkopf makes a permanent range called Igora and demi permanents called Igora Soft. I must admit a 17 year bias toward this product. In all those years it has never let me down. Added bonus – they also make a Blue Black in a demi.

L’Oreal also make high quality permanent and demi permanent colours. Bonus – they make a blue black, a red black, a green black and my fave – a purple black! Wheeee!

Cheap Tricks
Adding Manic Panic or Punky Colour Black (or indeed any black rinse) to your regular hair shampoo and conditioner will deposit some colour when you shampoo, and keep it looking fresh longer. It’s cheaper than buying coloured shampoo and conditioner. It will not stop your colour fading, but will help it not look as faded so soon.

You could also try the same trick as above, but you can accent your black with a colour like red or purple. Or just apply the Manic Panic over the top a day or so after the dye itself. You’ll only see it under certain light but it does create interest, that is even more striking when the dye does start to fade.

No time to dye it black? Try mascara. Yup, on your part and hairline if visible. Won’t fool many for long, but for one night in a dark room it’ll do fine. Just don’t let anyone run their fingers through your hair.

Cigarette ash does work to remove dye, but it’s abrasive and can irritate sensitive skin. If you must, add some lotion to lessen the irritation. The best (and most cost-effective) removal product is Roux colour stain remover.

Drip-free application? Follow these tips:

Never use too much peroxide. It may sting. It will also over-oxidize the colour and cause it to fade fast.

Wear a top you don’t care about. Bottoms too. A top you can slip down over your shoulders or unzip/button/etc is also a good idea. Never over your head.

Know where you are going to rinse your hair. If it’s in the kitchen, move all food related products/tools/etc first and clean the area well before preparing food or washing dishes there again.

Never rinse off in the shower unless you can guarantee yourself you’ll get nothing in your eyes. For safety’s sake, I won’t recommend it.

If you can get someone to help you rinse, use a towel and fold it into a wedge. Hold this wedge to your eyebrows. Not your hair-line, not your eyes. If you hold it to your hair line your interfere with rinsing the colour off properly. To the eyes, and you are in danger of getting chemicals in your eyes. This towel will get soaked, but your eyes will be safe.

If you have a sensitive scalp, sparse or thinning hair, and/or permanent dye stains your scalp, use a Back-to-Back application instead. This is a demi permanent colour applied twice in a row. Rinse off and towel dry the hair well before the second application.

Hold a colour party! Invite some spooky souls over to colour each others hair, listen to music, read lots of interesting articles and fiction, basically everything you can do on Morbid Outlook. (What was that? Shameless plug? Moi?)