Yosa, the designer behind Silks & Velvets says, “With old clothes – sometimes the skirt or top of a dress can be used for the skirt. In my early sewing days, I would take a 1950’s cocktail gown and cut off the top. The trick there is to cut above the waistline an inch or two, and hand sewing the waist edge in a roll down at the waist so it will not fray away. You can then add a skirt hook and eye, or use a safety pin (that is what I did, admittedly.)

“You can also hem skirts into miniskirts pretty easily – see that nasty 1970’s dress? Would it make a fab bright and funky miniskirt to wear with a big sweater and stompy boots?”

Annette Magus of Australian-based Gallery Serpentine says when she is training a new person, “I usually teach them how to sew up a waist cincher first of all. But for an absolute beginner, that might be a bit hard.”

Shumit Basu, of The Underground Aristocracy admits, “I actually did this as part of an assignment in college where we had to buy an old garment and reconfigure it into something new. I found a brown leather coat for $5 at a thrift store. Using Fiebing's leather dye, I dyed the leather black, thus making it more wearable. This is something that's really easy for anyone to do. I replaced the plastic buttons with leather covered buttons and removed the disgusting old lining and replaced it with a new one based on the pattern I developed from the original lining pieces. Making a new lining is a bit tricky, but something that can be done with a little care and patience. BTW, my instructor was not particularly pleased with the results, but as I needed a warm winter coat, I was quite satisfied.”

Curse and Kambriel of Atrocities suggest for beginners, “It’s best to simply take a piece out of your current wardrobe which has a very basic style, and then embellish upon it by adding trims, notions, painting directly onto it, etc. You can think of this more as personalizing a piece as opposed to creating one from scratch, and that way at least you know it will fit! Think of Jack Skellington when he says, ‘Maybe this can be *improved*?’.”

Karen Fleisch of Arkivestry says, “If you’re just starting out with no experience, check out a theatre pattern book, which is fairly basic and simple to understand. Also look into Simplicity patterns, maybe a cloak or skirt and just study the patterns, and get to know how to put it together. Know your pattern. Learn your grain lines in the fabric. They can make or break a piece.

“If you’re truly serious, check out classes out your local fabric shops, you’re bound to pick up some great tips. And it doesn’t have to cost a lot of money.”

Yosa: “Taking on projects that are too time consuming. We all know the reality of ‘I can do something with this’ that turns into piles of unwearable clothes.”

Shumit Basu: “Well I find careful basting to be important before adding the final stitches. Hand basting produces the most accurate results, but tends to be more tedious than using pins.”

Curse and Kambriel: “Leaving raw edges on fabric – nothing says ‘cheaply made’ more clearly than raw, unfinished edges of fabric showing on a completed garment. Hems, finished edges, and covered seams are all good things and will give your piece a more polished look. Try to think if something will fray down the road, what can you do to prevent that from happening... this will make your piece last much longer too.”

Laura Shrewsbury of Underbelly : “Being overly ambitious and impatient. It’s boring to make something simple, it’s boring to take lots of time and be detail oriented. But if you’re just starting out, that’s exactly what you have to do... go very slowly and start simple. Make good friends with your sewing machine and your iron!”

Karen Fleisch: “Finishes, you can always tell when something’s done by an amateur by the finish and how the inside looks, especially if you“re making stuff to sell. And starting with the most difficult fabric; beginners should not start with velvet. Start with a woven.”

Yosa: “Cotton, linen, wool, anything basic – good sewing, and clean lines look great!”

Shumit Basu: “I suppose any basic fabric like a cotton or wool. If the fabric is such that the cut edges won’t fray, like certain woolens, some stretch materials, lace; that makes things simpler. It’s easier for me to come up with fabrics that are insanely difficult to work with like silk tulle, silk chiffon (or even synthetic chiffon), velvet, latex...”

Curse and Kambriel: “The easiest fabric to work with would be a stable, non-stretch cotton broadcloth – this fabric holds it’s shape well, and simply pinning it is fine prior to sewing as basting isn’t really needed. It’s also inexpensive, so if your design doesn’t turn out how you were hoping, you’re not out a big $ investment. Of course, most people of a more gothic persuasion tend to completely ignore what’s easiest and rather choose to go with some of the most difficult (and expensive) fabrics ;)”

Laura Shrewsbury: “Woven cotton. Dull, but it’s a great place to start. Heavyweight cotton knits are also very user-friendly.”

Karen Fleisch: “Basic wovens like cottons, even lightweight brocades and damasks. Avoid slippery fabric or fabrics with nap. They can be difficult to cut correctly.”

Yosa: “Probably the easiest way is to not use movies (esp. fantasy movies) as your research. Some more recent movies have been better, but most have some glaring mistakes, that while pretty, are not period.

“Avoid Glam, but do pay attention to your face and hair. A little styling to your hair, and even simple powder on your face will keep up the historic look. People always look at your face.

“Posture! We have terrible posture nowadays– practice your walk and posture shoulders back, chin level, don’t walk too fast.

“Sad to say, for anything you want to look period for before 1930 or so- do not use: glitter, fabric paint, sequins, stretch fabrics like spandex, or stretch velvet, panne velvet, zippers, and princess seams. And nothing plastic– plastic barrettes, etc. Watch your shoes and purse!

“On men’s clothes– watch the shoulder seams, and shoulder pads. Check out period paintings to see what the shoulders should look like before spending a lot of time and money. Watch the shoes and socks.

“If you are trying for renaissance or medieval: also avoid eyelet anything, lace trims, all colored lace, all lace fabric, printed fabric, all those pretty embroidered lace trims, seed beads, and always cover your hair. Also, it sounds silly, but exposed hair, nail polish, dark lipstick, and bra straps immediately take away from the image. Now that is not to say you should use cheap cotton for everything either – combinations of tones, and variety of natural fabrics is wonderful!”

Shumit Basu: “Lots of careful research and observation. I think your site pointed out that the costumes in Braveheart weren’t correct for the time. I noticed a serious problem in Sleepy Hollow when someone’s corset had a separating busk closure–something that wasn’t devised until the late 19th century. The correct use of foundation garments, such as corsets, are essential in recreating many period looks.”

Curse and Kambriel: “Again, embellishment! A little more lace never hurts? In the past, dressmakers paid much more attention to passamenterie – all of the rows of softly gathered lace, ribbon accents, soutache trimming, extra buttons. Simply changing the buttons on a piece can give it an added flair, and really transform an item more into whatever era you would like it to appear to be from. You could replace modern day buttons with tiny mother of pearl or faceted jet type ones for a Victorian look, rhinestone buttons for twenties Vamp pieces, silver filigree for Restoration era, etc.”

Laura Shrewsbury: “Do your historical research! Look at costume picture books in the library, and then use what’s in your closet or what you can buy in stores (thrift shops are great for this) to emulate the look. Pay attention to hairstyles and details like jewelry and accessories. Get creative, think outside the box. Long skirts, jackets, vests and blouses can look Victorian, Gypsy, or Renaissance, depending on how you fiddle with details. Old 80’s satin prom dresses can be modified to make a great ballgown; slit the front skirt, wear another skirt under it or sew a panel of contrasting fabric underneath. Add some trim to the sleeves and a pair long gloves, and wind some jewels in your hair.

“This may sound simple, but a big part of looking period is standing up straight, with your shoulders back and head held high. If you’ve gone to all the trouble of looking like a Venetian Contessa, don’t slump! Try to not interrupt the period effect by wearing glasses, a wristwatch or other obviously modern jewelry. Leave the coffin purse at home! Carry a purse that matches the look you’re trying to achieve (make a drawstring bag from the fabric scraps left from the ballgown project). Most of all, enjoy the learning process, learn to laugh at your sewing mistakes (there will be plenty!), and don’t get so caught up in the details that you forget to have fun.”

Karen Fleisch: “Depends on the period, if you want something to look Baroque, work with pastels and ruffles! Something Renaissance would have big sleeves and drapey fabrics. Victorian looks have big skirts and high necks. It’s always fun to mix vintage with modern. Adding little details can totally change a piece and make it personal.”